The calming, lush grounds of Los Tarrales Nature Reserve

Birding Los Tarrales Nature Reserve

I wrapped up my 10-day trip to Guatemala with a stay at Los Tarrales Nature Reserve, a working plantation and great spot for birding on the slopes of Volcan Atitlan. I stayed in the cheapest accommodation available – the motel-like rooms known as “Las Chachas”. They had some nicer rooms, and a few tree-fort-style places available (next time). I had 3 full days at Los Tarrales. I spent one hiking Volcan de San Pedro in a search for the Horned Guan. On the other two days, I wandered the property.

My first day there, I arrived following a two+ hour car ride from Antigua. I first took a stroll down a trail that visited a small lake on the property not far from the central lodging and eating area. It was early afternoon, so activity was not high. But I picked up two lifers – the large and loud White-bellied Chachalaca, and the brightly-marked and conspicuous Rufous-backed Wren. A Northern Tropical Pewee perched out in the open, giving great views. A Yellow-Green Vireo did the same, which was surprising given how elusive the one that visited Los Angeles was. There ween’t any ducks in the pond, but it was a nice warm-up walk.

Northern Tropical Pewee
Yellow-green Vireo
Rufous-backed Wren

After refueling, I headed for a trail that went up the slope of the volcano and through great habitat. Activity was still a bit low, and I heard many more birds than I saw. I managed understory views of a lifer Blue-tailed Hummingbird. I repeatedly heard, but never saw, lifer Long-tailed Manakins in the higher parts of the trail. These birds, like other manakins, have dazzling courtship displays that may be the only male cooperative courting in the animal world. Other nice birds on the hike included multiple White-Throated Thrushes, a pair of Red-legged Honeycreepers, and a Masked Tityra.

Day 2 at Los Tarrales was my trip to Volcan de San Pedro. My third and last day started at the “feeder” station just outside my room. The only food that is put out is a big bunch of bananas. That’s apparently all it takes, because a slow but steady stream of birds visited the trees around the bananas. Clay-colored Thrushes were their usual ubiquitous selves. Four spectacular Lessen’s Motmots were feeding on berries in the nearby bushes. A pair of Yellow-winged Tanagers showed off their subtle beauty. And just as my birding guide Ben promised, a lifer Spot-breasted Oriole showed up for some banana breakfast.

Lessen’s Motmot
Yellow-winged Tanager
Clay-colored Thrush
Spot-breasted Oriole

After breakfast, I wandered more of the property. After a quick check of the pond (still no ducks), I headed north through the fields. Again, the birding was great. The agricultural fields were surrounded by patches of trees, where the birds congregated. I saw my first-ever Yellow-Olive Flatbill, Spot-breasted Wren, and White-throated Magpie-Jay. A Smoky-Brown Woodpecker flew in while I snacked. On a wire, I found a Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher.   

White-throated Magpie-Jay
Smoky-brown Woodpecker
Pacific Parakeet

Cinnamon Hummingbirds were the most prevalent hummingbirds on the property, regularly perching at eye level on edge bushes. A Roadside Hawk kept watch over an empty field. A buzzing sound turned out to be a Blue-black Grassquit,  whose midnight coloring looked cool when hit by the sun.

White-throated Thrush
Roadside Hawk
Cinnamon Hummingbird
Blue-black Grassquit

it wasn’t just birds on the property. There were agouti all over the place, some sort of tropical rodent. I spotted a couple of basilisks. Deer roamed around at night. But perhaps the strangest, most unexpected sighting of all was the palm-sized crab that walked across the trail in front of me one day. The reserve is about 50 miles from the ocean. It turns out there are freshwater crabs in nearby Lake Atitlan, which I guess explains this crab’s presence. 

Los Tarrales Nature Reserve is a great spot, and located near the stunning Lake Atitlan and some hikable highland volcanos where you can see some rare birds. They offer birding guides and tours on site if that’s your jam. I found wandering the property to be enjoyable, but I’m sure I would’ve added more species if I had a guide with me. I wish I’d checked in about a night tour, to see if there were any known owls around. All in all, great visit.