Month: September 2025

Orange County Pelagic Trip

We found several rafts of hundreds of Pink-footed Shearwaters

Orange County Pelagic Trip 

When you sign up for a 10-hour boat ride to see ocean birds, you accept the possibility that many of those hours will be spent looking at nothing but water in every direction. Or that you’ll be fogged in with less than 100 feet of visibility. Or that the waves will be rough enough to make everything unpleasant. In exchange for those possibilities, however, you get the chance to see birds you will not ever see from land.  Some species are expected. Others are gifts of chance, materializing when your boat just happens to cross paths with the wanderings of a bird on an infinitesimally small and completely unpredictable point on the earth’s vast oceans.

Pelagic birding is the last frontier of birding on the planet. The distribution of the birds of the world’s basins, beaches, bogs, jungles, hills, mountains, deserts, plains, plateaus, agricultural fields, forests, lakes, marshes, mesas, valleys, volcanos, creeks, capes and canyons are well known. The birds of the oceans remain comparatively mysterious. We have a sense of what’s out generally there, and where they breed. But many ocean birds spend their lives cruising widely, pushed here and there by wind and storm, and the shifting location of their food.

I recently took a boat ride with a few dozen birders out of Dana Point, California. The plan was to spend the day primarily in relatively nearshore Orange County waters. We visited spots with names like Crespi Knoll, the Lausen Sea Mount, the 279-fathom Bank, and the Catalina Ridge. At most, I think we were 25 miles off-shore. The day started with big flocks of Pink-footed Shearwaters and smaller numbers of Black-vented Shearwaters. The Black-vented Shearwaters are expected near-shore birds, sometimes occurring in massive winter flocks. The Pink-footed Shearwaters were a surprise. They normally are found only in small numbers off southern California. The hundreds we were seeing were unusual.

The first good rare find on the boat was a South Polar Skua sitting on the water about 10 miles out. Skua are bulky bullies of the oceans, chasing gulls and shearwaters and boobies, forcing them to drop fish they’ve caught. They breed on the coast of Antartica, and can be found in any ocean. I’d seen a pair of South Polar Skuas on a Maine whalewatching boat. This bird was my first for California. In the same area were a few Pomarine Jeagers. Similar to skuas, but not as large, they “hunt” at sea by stealing fish from other birds. During breeding on arctic tundra, they feed on lemmings.

After this excitement, a few hours of mostly nothing followed. Besides a big flock of Black Storm-Petrels, it was pretty empty out there. At 2:30pm, the boat turned back in the direction of Dana Point. Things had been dragging since 10am, and spirits were somewhat down despite the South Polar Skua from the morning. But I hadn’t lost my optimism. I yelled out for folks to keep their eyes out, confident there was at least one more good bird to find before we made it back to harbor. 

A little after 3pm, our great trip leader, Tom Benson, yelled out “Red-billed Tropicbird!!” Out ahead of the boat, a white bird had lifted off the ocean and thankfully turned to fly toward the boat. It made a fly-by along the port side, giving great views. These are beautiful birds rarely seen from land, and not often seen in nearshore southern California waters. They’ve got a dark red bill, sharp black markings on the face, back, and wings, and long tail feathers. This was a lifer for me.

Ten or fifteen minutes later, Tom was at it again. This time, he screamed out “Flesh-footed Shearwater!” This was a rarer bird than either the skua or the tropicbird. And it would be another lifer if I could get my eyes on it. They’re the same size and shape as the Pink-footed Shearwaters it was amongst. The key distinguishing feature is an all dark brown body. It took me some time to find it on the water, but I did. Seconds later, it flew directly away from the boat. I got one picture that I think is the bird, but you can’t tell. Two lifers on the last leg of the trip was a nice finish to the day.

It wasn’t just birds out there. We also saw a Humpback Whale, a few Fin Whales, dolphins, a mola mola, a flying fish, and multiple dragonflies during the day. Given the pleasant conditions, and nice rarities, it was a successful trip.

 

 

 

Birding Guatemala #4: Los Tarrales Nature Reserve

The calming, lush grounds of Los Tarrales Nature Reserve

Birding Los Tarrales Nature Reserve

I wrapped up my 10-day trip to Guatemala with a stay at Los Tarrales Nature Reserve, a working plantation and great spot for birding on the slopes of Volcan Atitlan. I stayed in the cheapest accommodation available – the motel-like rooms known as “Las Chachas”. They had some nicer rooms, and a few tree-fort-style places available (next time). I had 3 full days at Los Tarrales. I spent one hiking Volcan de San Pedro in a search for the Horned Guan. On the other two days, I wandered the property.

My first day there, I arrived following a two+ hour car ride from Antigua. I first took a stroll down a trail that visited a small lake on the property not far from the central lodging and eating area. It was early afternoon, so activity was not high. But I picked up two lifers – the large and loud White-bellied Chachalaca, and the brightly-marked and conspicuous Rufous-backed Wren. A Northern Tropical Pewee perched out in the open, giving great views. A Yellow-Green Vireo did the same, which was surprising given how elusive the one that visited Los Angeles was. There ween’t any ducks in the pond, but it was a nice warm-up walk.

After refueling, I headed for a trail that went up the slope of the volcano and through great habitat. Activity was still a bit low, and I heard many more birds than I saw. I managed understory views of a lifer Blue-tailed Hummingbird. I repeatedly heard, but never saw, lifer Long-tailed Manakins in the higher parts of the trail. These birds, like other manakins, have dazzling courtship displays that may be the only male cooperative courting in the animal world. Other nice birds on the hike included multiple White-Throated Thrushes, a pair of Red-legged Honeycreepers, and a Masked Tityra.

Day 2 at Los Tarrales was my trip to Volcan de San Pedro. My third and last day started at the “feeder” station just outside my room. The only food that is put out is a big bunch of bananas. That’s apparently all it takes, because a slow but steady stream of birds visited the trees around the bananas. Clay-colored Thrushes were their usual ubiquitous selves. Four spectacular Lessen’s Motmots were feeding on berries in the nearby bushes. A pair of Yellow-winged Tanagers showed off their subtle beauty. And just as my birding guide Ben promised, a lifer Spot-breasted Oriole showed up for some banana breakfast.

After breakfast, I wandered more of the property. After a quick check of the pond (still no ducks), I headed north through the fields. Again, the birding was great. The agricultural fields were surrounded by patches of trees, where the birds congregated. I saw my first-ever Yellow-Olive Flatbill, Spot-breasted Wren, and White-throated Magpie-Jay. A Smoky-Brown Woodpecker flew in while I snacked. On a wire, I found a Sulphur-bellied Flycatcher.   

Cinnamon Hummingbirds were the most prevalent hummingbirds on the property, regularly perching at eye level on edge bushes. A Roadside Hawk kept watch over an empty field. A buzzing sound turned out to be a Blue-black Grassquit,  whose midnight coloring looked cool when hit by the sun.

it wasn’t just birds on the property. There were agouti all over the place, some sort of tropical rodent. I spotted a couple of basilisks. Deer roamed around at night. But perhaps the strangest, most unexpected sighting of all was the palm-sized crab that walked across the trail in front of me one day. The reserve is about 50 miles from the ocean. It turns out there are freshwater crabs in nearby Lake Atitlan, which I guess explains this crab’s presence. 

Los Tarrales Nature Reserve is a great spot, and located near the stunning Lake Atitlan and some hikable highland volcanos where you can see some rare birds. They offer birding guides and tours on site if that’s your jam. I found wandering the property to be enjoyable, but I’m sure I would’ve added more species if I had a guide with me. I wish I’d checked in about a night tour, to see if there were any known owls around. All in all, great visit.