Category: Trip Reports (Page 31 of 32)

Yucatan, Mexico #3 – Birding Tulum

Yucatan Jay Tulum

The endemic, and ubiquitous, Yucatan Jay

Aldea Zama: Birds Around our Tulum Condo

We spent the middle of our Yucatan trip in and around Tulum. It’s a former hidden eco-chic getaway that now suffers from its own success. Posh (i.e. WAY-overpriced) hotels and chic-ly named condominiums dominate. The visitors are a bunch of broke ravers and DJ aficionados alongside hedge fund bros in white linen and yoga ladies on bikes. Tulum itself is not a birding hotspot. Still, there’s beauty and adventure to be had. There are several sets of ruins within a short drive (Coba and Muyil). Tulum has beachfront ruins. The amazing-looking Sian Ka’an Preserve is near. The highlight of the area for us was, by far, the cenotes – limestone sinkholes filled with crystal clear water. Some are great for snorkeling. Others offer scuba diving. Tankatch Ha, near Coba, is a cave almost 100 feet down from the surface, and has a platform for jumping in (highly recommended). The cenotes are unique, dazzling, and magical. Don’t miss them. And the beach is nice if that’s your jam.

We stayed in a rental in an area known as Aldea Zama. It’s a big flat area of jungle between town and the beach that has turned into a theme park of condominium complexes. Don’t get me wrong – we loved having air conditioning, a kitchen and a couch, and a nice swimming pool outside our door for our five night stay. When a couple family members felt sick for a couple of days, the condo was a trip saver. And all the buildings and construction sites provided a lot of jungle edge that gave me a chance to find some birds. On various morning and afternoon walks, I picked up eight lifers: the ubiquitous Yucatan Jay, Yucatan Woodpecker, Yucatan Vireo, Scrub Euphonia, Black-cowled Oriole, White-fronted Parrot, Yellow-lored Parrot, and Olive-throated Parakeet. I never found any big or mixed flocks, though.

Melodious Blackbird Tulum

Melodious Blackbird

Green Jay Tulum

Green Jay

Olive-throated Parakeet Tulum

Olive-throated Parakeet

Yellow-fronted Parrot Tulum

Yellow-lored Parrot

Black-cowled Oriole Tulum

Black-cowled Oriole

Yucatan Vireo Tulum

Yucatan Vireo

Social Flycatchers and Masked Tityra were regulars on snags, while Roadside Hawk preferred mid-level cover.

 

Tulum Ruins

One day, the boys and I headed to the beachfront ruins in Tulum. It’s a popular tourist destination, so unlike the bigger and better ruins at Coba, or the awesome birdiness of empty Muyil, there is a line to stand in. Happily, a family of pretty tame coati provided free entertainment. It was super windy (not unusual during January from what I’m told). The iguanas didn’t seem to mind, but it kept the bird activity down. Don’t expect a big list here.  

Yellow-throated Warbler makes ID easy

Beachfront ruins at Tulum

Tulum beach ruins

Yucatan, Mexico #2 – Birding Chichen Itza

Platform of the Eagles and Jaguars Chichen Itza

Despite this documentation of an eagle devouring a human heart, eBird has no confirmed Maya-era sightings

Birding Chichén Itzá Amongst Roaring Jaguars

Our Yucatan adventure culminated in a stay at the Hotel Mayaland and a visit to the Maya archaeological site known as Chichén Itzá. It was one of the biggest Maya cities. Most of the structures have been excavated, and many have been restored. It has a huge ballcourt where you can do some awesome acoustic tricks, an observatory, and a picturesque pyramid. Unlike Cobá, where you can climb to the top of the pyramid, the ruins here are all roped off. And unlike Cobá, this place is expensive and crowded.

Because we stayed at the Mayaland, we were able to buy tickets and go through a side entrance. We were second in line in the morning, and enjoyed an hour or two before the crowds and trinkets sellers (roaring jaguars at every other booth) changed the feel. A handy little guidebook allowed us to learn about the buildings and temples and ballcourt and carvings as we wandered around.  Our sons bargained for momentos and t-shirts. My wife spent too much on a colorful Mexican blanket. I peered into the trees and bushes for birds.

Despite the crowds and the wide-open spaces, the area is surrounded by jungle and there were birds all around. My oldest son had the best find of the day – a lifer Turquoise-browed Motmot perched at eye-level just 20 feet away from us. Motmots wag their tails back and forth, which is often the way to spot them.

Turquoise-browed Motmot Chichen Itza

Turquoise-browed Motmot

We had good looks at a lot of birds. Yucatan Jays moved loudly all about. A group of Green Jays and Altamira Orioles were near the ballcourt. A Cinnamon Hummingbird posed for a nice photo.  There were poor looks at even more species, like the distant Bat Falcon perched on some tower and the lifer Gray-crowned Yellowthroat that vanished as quickly as it appeared in a bush right next to us.                                                                                                                                                           

Cinnamon Hummingbird Chichen Itza

Cinnamon Hummingbird

Birding at the Hotel Mayaland

For our visit, we stayed right next to Chichén Itzá in a bungalow at the Hotel Mayaland. It’s on the expensive side, but has lush grounds that are great for birding (and some swimming pools and a replica observatory/planetarium with a decent show about Maya sky-watching and culture). While walking the grounds, I had a Great Black Hawk flyover, lifer Grayish Saltators and Wedge-tailed Sabrewing, another Turquoise-browed Motmot, more Olivaceous Woodcreeper, and a Rufous-browed Peppershrike was in the same tree at dusk each night. At one meal, a brilliant red Summer Tanager joined us.

Bungalow Hotel Mayaland

Our Bungalow

Summer Tanager Hotel Mayaland

Selfie with Summer Tanager

Clay-colored Thrush Hotel Mayaland

Clay-colored Thrush

Rufous-browed Peppershrike Hotel Mayaland

Rufous-browed Peppershrike

One afternoon, I wandered over to the grounds of the Hacienda Chichen next door and added some more good sightings, including Groove-billed Ani, White-fronted Parrot, and a lifer Yellow-winged Tanager.

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