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Birding Puerto Rico #1: Bosque de Cambalache

A Puerto Rican Lizard Cuckoo snacking on a big centipede

Lifers and Endemics in Puerto Rico Woodland

In June, I took my first trip to Puerto Rico in 20 years. Unlike the last time I visited, this trip would include some birding. And there were a bunch of lifers waiting for me. Many of them could only be found in Puerto Rico, where there are 18 endemic bird species. Four of them are endangered. There are also a bunch of exotic species that have established themselves there. While I was happy to stumble across the exotics, I wasn’t targeting them (except for crossing my fingers on a Blue-and-Yellow Macaw). Instead, I was hoping to get a dozen of the endemics and whatever else fell my way as I explored the island. 

My first stop was a patch of native woodland about an hour’s drive from San Jose. called Bosque de Cambalache. It’s just off the main highway (22) in the northern part of the island near the town of Arecibo. It’s a mostly flat area of dense tree cover, with wide paths throughout. The entire perimeter loop is 4 miles long. I walked every trail on the map below except #6 and #7 over the course of 3 hours. It was hot and muggy, and quite productive. The intersections of the trails were often busiest with birds, but I had some nice finds in each area.

 

The parking area is right next to a picnic area, with some cleared grassy fields and nice edge habitat. I started there. A pair of Gray Kingbirds sallied about as I took in all the mysterious bird calls coming from the forest. Back at my rental car, a Black-faced Grassquit was attacking its reflection in my side mirror. Bananaquit were ubiquitous. Vireo song was also nearly constant. I tried out Merlin, which was awesome in Spain. But it confessed to not knowing the birds of Puerto Rico. It thought almost everything was a Bananaquit or a Black-whiskered Vireo. It was undoubtedly right sometimes, but I suspect there were also Puerto Rican Vireos in the trees, too. No glimpses of that endemic during this visit, though.

Of the island’s endemics, I saw the following six at Cambalache: Puerto Rican Flycatcher (like a small Ash-throated with plainer coloring); Puerto Rican Lizard Cuckoo (my favorite bird of the trip, thanks to the centipede scene that played out right before my eyes); Puerto Rican Tody (bright green ping-pong ball with a beak and a tail, wearing a red bib; its harsh, quick, repeated buzz became familiar over the course of the walk); Puerto Rican Woodpecker (poor looks at a bird high in the canopy); Adelaide’s Warbler (like a Grace’s Warbler with more yellow below; I had point blank views of a pair at the intersection of trails 1 & 2 by my camera’s focus failed me); and Puerto Rican Bullfinch (a big chunky sparrow-like bird with a red cap and throat).

There are 3 species of the elusive Quail-Dove on Puerto Rico, dense forest ground dwellers that are hard to spot. Two were occasionally detected at Cambalache – Key West Quail-Dove and Ruddy Quail-Dove. As I was walking along trail #1  between trails 2 and 4, I saw a bird flush from the trail edge into the forest. It was almost certainly a quail-dove of some kind, but I didn’t get a good look at it. I hung around the spot for 15 minutes, and eventually heard low, repeating “hooooos” coming from at least 2 different birds.  My best audio recording is uploaded to my eBird checklist. I am not 100% sure I got the ID right, but based on listening to other recordings, I put it down as a Key West Quail-Dove. A week before my visit, Key West Quail-Dove had been photographed at Cambalache, so it’s plausible. Bummed I couldn’t get eyes on one, though. 

Some of the other birds I saw included lifer Scaly-naped Pigeons, White-crowned Pigeon, and Zenaida Dove. A Magnificent Frigatebird made a flyover at one point. I spotted a single Loggerhead Kingbird. Red-legged Thrushes, sporting an awesome gray-black-orange color scheme, kept on eye on the trail at several spots. At the end of my walk, back near the parking area, a quartet of Smooth-billed Ani were moving around the trees. 

All told, I left Cambalache with 16 new lifers and super thirsty. If you’re looking for some good forest birding within an hour of San Jose, and didn’t make reservations or want to deal with the crowds of El Yunque, Bosque de Cambalache is a great birding spot.

 

 

Eurasian Eagle-Owl in NY’s Central Park

Eurasian Eagle Owl Central Park New York City

Flaco the Eurasian Eagle-Owl in Central Park, NY

Fugitive Owl Making it in New York

At 8:30pm on February 2, 2023, officials at New York’s Central Park Zoo realized that a twelve year-old Eurasian Eagle-Owl named Flaco was not in his enclosure. Someone had cut the wire mesh, and the owl had flown. Later that evening, Flaco was spotted on the sidewalk at Madison Avenue between 59th and 60th Streets. NYPD officers tried to take him into custody, but he flew off. By morning, he was back in Central Park, perched in a tree. Efforts to re-capture him were unsuccessful. And despite initial concern about the owl’s ability to hunt (he’d been at the zoo since he was  less than 1-year old, in an enclosure no bigger than a bus), he’s remained in Central Park for the past 4 months living off mice and rats and who knows what else

During a recent visit to NYC, I went to look for this survivor. He’d recently been roosting in trees near a compost heap in the northeast part of the park. I couldn’t find GPS coordinates or any specific directions to his “favorite tree” online, so I hoped my positive attitude would lead me to the owl.  When I arrived at the compost heap in the afternoon, I found it surrounded by trees that looked like the one he roosted in. But I couldn’t find the owl. There weren’t any agitated crows or songbirds giving his position away. No other birders came by, either. After 90 minutes of wandering and checking the branches over and over again, I decided to go get some food and return in an hour.

My first glimpse of Flaco

When I came back to the spot, I decided to search twitter for some help. I found an account called “Manhattan Bird Alert” (@BirdCentralPark), which included a bunch of posts of Flaco from the last week. They included lots of great photos, many close up, but those didn’t help me identify the tree. After scrolling forever, one showed a person standing by a blue dumpster, a big orange-white striped drum, and a fence, looking up into a tree. It had a caption that Flaco was in the tree. I’d walked past that blue dumpster several times, and looked up into that tree over and over again. But this gave me hope. With renewed optimism, I carefully scanned all the branches, from many angles. Within a few minutes, I caught a glimpse of the big owl’s back on a densely-leafed horizontal branch, presumably where he’d been all day long.

Moving around, I found 3 precise spots where you got good looks. Move 2 feet in any direction from those spots, and he disappeared. It was still an hour before sunset, so he wasn’t moving. Indeed, he only bothered to open one eye. About 15 minutes after I found him, the adult Baltimore Orioles who were feeding two young in a nearby nest started harassing the big Eagle-Owl. This prompted him to open both eyes. He was a big, healthy looking owl. 

The rare Eurasian Eagle-Owl / Baltimore Oriole combo photo

Eurasian Eagle-Owls are one of the largest owls on earth. They’re the orange-eyed Eurasian counterpart to America’s Great Horned Owl. They live from Spain to Russia  in a wide range of habitats. Like many owls, they are nocturnal predators, heading out just after sunset to hunt.

The biggest debate surrounding Flaco is whether he should be recaptured and returned to the zoo or allowed to roam freely. The Audubon Society had a long piece on it with many considered views. I’m firmly in the camp that supports Flaco’s freedom. There’s some appeal to the idea that he’ll live a longer life in captivity. He wouldn’t be eating poisoned rodents, and wouldn’t risk a nighttime collision with a vehicle.  But that logic applies just as well to the Great Horned Owls who call Central Park home. I can’t so easily go along with the notion that recapture is what is best. Would spending years in captivity, inside a mesh school bus  be a better life than weeks or months or maybe years of wild freedom? I doubt that any captive animals, or humans, would say yes.

Moreover, this isn’t an endangered species. Flaco is little more than a gorgeous display item at the zoo. That’s not to say I support zoo vandalism. Zoos do great work, promoting animal and habitat conservation. But this Eurasian Eagle-Owl, despite a life in captivity and confident assertions to the contrary, has made the transition to self-supporting NYC resident. Let’s enjoy the survival story as long as it lasts.

 

 

 

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